Startups Are Eating Big Food’s Lunch

As American shoppers buy less packaged foods, Big Food has leaned on a familiar excuse: It's the economy, stupid. True, inflation has forced some families to trade down to cheaper store brands, and stagnant wages have squeezed household budgets.

That explanation misses a crucial shift: middle- and high-income Americans are still splurging, just not on legacy labels. Their dollars are flowing to niche names with more cultural cachet, from fancy new protein bars to chewier candy.

So-called insurgent brands now capture a wildly disproportionate share of...

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