Where Do Steakhouses Go From Here?

New York's first steakhouses were dungeons. Or so they were called, with love, these basements and back rooms of the mid-1800s where men (and only men) perched on crates and ate beef and bread off barrels with sawdust at their feet and not a fork or knife in sight.

They were not proper restaurants, but provisional spaces commandeered for rough-and-ready banquets, where haves and have-nots made common cause over heart-stopping amounts of meat and ale. The cooking of the beef was straightforward...

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